Wheels 
Front - Black Excel 21 x 1.85 
Rear - Black Excel 18 x 2.50
Spokes/nipples
Front - Stock OEM zinc plated spokes with 10g.300 nickel brass nipples

Rear - 8g Cad plated steel spokes with 8g.325 nickel brass nipples
Hubs
Front - Stock OEM
Rear - Stock OEM

  • .BEARINGS 

  • The factory bearings are only sealed on one side and are prone to water damage very quickly. I always try and get good quality Japanese bearings to replace them and make sure they are double side sealed. I am currently running NTNs from a local bearing supply shop.

 Bearing Numbers for DR650se (2RS = Double side seals)

    • 2 x Front 6003.2RS
    • 2 x Rear 6204.2RS
    • 1 x Sprocket Carrier 6205.2RS

 

  •  FORKS

  •  2006 RMZ250 48mm KYB inverted forks
    • I scored an entire rolling chassis of a 2006 RMZ250 with the sole intention of using the forks. It wasn't unfortunately a plug and play modification like I had hoped and required some fabrication and engineering work to be done in order to utilise the stock DR front wheel and to retain the headstock bearings as standard. Bushes were machined up so I could utilise the 17mm swingarm axle from the RMZ for the axle and have it fir the Stock DR wheel bearings. A bit of milling of the RMZ caliper bracket to keep the disc and wheel in alignment and the stock DR steering stem was pressed out of the DR triples and pressed into the RMZ triples in order to retain the stock headstem bearings and spacing. The RMZ lower triple steering stops matched the DR perfectly. These forks are 40mm longer than the stockers and have 300mm of travel - 40mm more than the stockers.

You can read more about the full conversion here:

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/kezzas-dr650-rmz-fork-upgrade.1126303/ 

  • REAR SHOCK 

  • SHOCK: Stock Body and Shaft
    • The bike had developed a nasty, hard to find rattle in the rear end somewhere, and I eventually found the stock bump stop rubber had deteriorated and was riding up the shaft allowing a large washer underneath it rattle on the shaft. If I was going to replace the rubber, I might as well treat myself to a rebuild, revalve and spring at the same time. Being curious, I decided to take it on myself.
  • DAMPING: Racetech Gold Valve and Shim Stack
    • Tried and proven, I setup my Gold valve as recommended by Racetech based on my weight and type of riding. They give you a temporary timed link to download your valving information.
  • 7.5kg/mm Blue (procycle) Spring
    • Purchased used (brand new) off a fellow adventure rider who went a heavier spring. This rear spring suits my weight and allows for a loaded bike over the rear.
  • Aftermarket Bottoming Bumper
    • Because the stock one had fallen to bits
  • Moose Racing Seal Head
    • There was nothing wrong with the OEM one but I purchased this as cheap insurance when rebuilding the shock.
  • 5 Weight Yamalube Shock Fluid
    • As close as I could get to RACETECH's recommended shock fluid and weight
  • 175PSI Nitrogen
    • As recommended by RACETECH, I had the shock recharged at my local dealer for about $25.00

  •  SWINGARM and LINKAGES

  •  SWINGARM: Stock
    • The stock swingarm is fine as it is and I haven't had the need to modify or strenghten it. 
    • I have added Zerk fittings (grease nipples) to some of the swingarm and linkage points however to ease maintenance. See maintainence page below for details.