• FRONT WHEEL 

  • RIM: Stock Excel Takasago 21 x 1.85 Rim
  • TYRE:  Michelin Desert Race 90/90 x 21 
    • Brilliant tyre with excellent, confidence inspiring sidegrip in the loose stuff. Good enough on the black-top although a bit noisy due to aggressive knobs. Not  a cheap tyre but great wear rate if pressures are looked after means value for money. I Can't see me running anything else on the front ever again.
  • BRAKE DISC:  Torpedo 7 320mm floating disc
    • Larger than the stock 290mm, this disc to suit the stock DR650 front wheel was purchased as a combo with caliper adapter to suit the RMZ forks.
  • BRAKE PADS: Goodridge Cross Sport Sintered
    • What was available at my dealer when I need brake pads. Pads are pads and they do what they are intended to do.
  • BRAKE LINE: Galfer Stainless Steel Braided line
    • Offers way better performance and power over stock rubber brake line and when combined with the oversized disc. the front brake really packs a punch. The line is routed rally bike style to free up the dash.

  •  REAR WHEEL

  •  RIM: Stock Excel Takasago 17 x 2.50 Rim
  • TYRE: Heidenhau K60 Scout  130/80 x 17
    • I was looking for something that had better wear rate than I have found so far with previous rear tyres. So far the K60 has proved to be an excellent handing tyre on and off road and seems to match the more aggressive Desert front tyre quite well. This tyre is still a compromise however as I am looking at changing to an 18 inch rim to improve my choice of tyres and more than likely will go to the Desert Race Rear.
  • BRAKE DISC: S3 Wave disc
    • Unlike the front, the rear disc has the stepped bolt holes and utilised the stock rotor bolts to install. I liked the look of these discs which is why I chose them and performance is no different to stock.
  • BRAKE PADS : EBC sintered
    • Brake pads are brake pads
  • BRAKE LINE: Stock
    • Rear brake power is not as important to me as front and the stock brake line works fine.
  • RIM LOCK: Motion Pro
    • Rim locks are not standard on this bike, but I wanted the confidence to run lower pressure on the rear and not spin a tyre.

  • .BEARINGS 

  • The factory bearings are only sealed on one side and are prone to water damage very quickly. I always try and get good quality Japanese bearings to replace them and make sure they are double side sealed. I am currently running NTNs from a local bearing supply shop.

 Bearing Numbers for DR650se (2RS = Double side seals)

    • 2 x Front 6003.2RS
    • 2 x Rear 6204.2RS
    • 1 x Sprocket Carrier 6205.2RS

  •  FORKS

  •  2006 RMZ250 48mm KYB inverted forks
    • I scored an entire rolling chassis of a 2006 RMZ250 with the sole intention of using the forks. It wasn't unfortunately a plug and play modification like I had hoped and required some fabrication and engineering work to be done in order to utilise the stock DR front wheel and to retain the headstock bearings as standard. Bushes were machined up so I could utilise the 17mm swingarm axle from the RMZ for the axle and have it fir the Stock DR wheel bearings. A bit of milling of the RMZ caliper bracket to keep the disc and wheel in alignment and the stock DR steering stem was pressed out of the DR triples and pressed into the RMZ triples in order to retain the stock headstem bearings and spacing. The RMZ lower triple steering stops matched the DR perfectly. These forks are 40mm longer than the stockers and have 300mm of travel - 40mm more than the stockers.

You Can read more about the full conversion here:

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/kezzas-dr650-rmz-fork-upgrade.1126303/ 

  • REAR SHOCK 

  • SHOCK: Stock Body and Shaft
    • The bike had developed a nasty, hard to find rattle in the rear end somewhere, and I eventually found the stock bump stop rubber had deteriorated and was riding up the shaft allowing a large washer underneath it rattle on the shaft. If I was going to replace the rubber, I might as well treat myself to a rebuild, revalve and spring at the same time. Being curious, I decided to take it on myself.
  • DAMPING: Racetech Gold Valve and Shim Stack
    • Tried and proven, I setup my Gold valve as recommended by Racetech based on my weight and type of riding. They give you a temporary timed link to download your valving information.
  • 7.5kg/mm Blue (procycle) Spring
    • Purchased used (brand new) off a fellow adventure rider who went a heavier spring. This rear spring suits my weight and allows for a loaded bike over the rear.
  • Aftermarket Bottoming Bumper
    • Because the stock one had fallen to bits
  • Moose Racing Seal Head
    • There was nothing wrong with the OEM one but I purchased this as cheap insurance when rebuilding the shock.
  • 5 Weight Yamalube Shock Fluid
    • As close as I could get to RACETECH's recommended shock fluid and weight
  • 175PSI Nitrogen
    • As recommended by RACETECH, I had the shock recharged at my local dealer for about $25.00

  •  SWINGARM and LINKAGES

  •  SWINGARM: Stock
    • The stock swingarm is fine as it is and I haven't had the need to modify or strenghten it. 
    • I have added Zerk fittings (grease nipples) to some of the swingarm and linkage points however to ease maintenance. See maintainence page below for details.